Orunmila, the god of divination, decided to travel to the village of Ouô. He asked his Opelé Ifa (oracular tool) and the journey was announced as uncertain. Still, Orunmila left, as it was a long and tiring road.

On the third day of his journey, Orunmila, tired and hungry, rested under a tree, where he found a few kola nuts that he ate without second thought. Eshu had placed the seeds along his way to propitiate the confusion that was to follow.

The owner of the tree and the seeds quickly came to the tree, accusing Orunmila of stealing his kola nuts and they both engaged in a violent fight. During the fight Orunmila was hurt and was wounded on his hand. The owner of the seeds threatened to go to Ouô and tell everyone that a thief was on his way and that they could all recognize him from a scar on his hand.

Orunmila was desperate and angry because his apologies had gone by unheeded, but then came Eshu, promising to find a solution to the problem he himself had created.

Eshu went that very night to Ouô and made cuts on the hands of all the sleeping people in the village, so that nobody could recognize Orunmila and accuse him of anything.

Everybody now has wounds on their hands.

Eshu can appear in Brazil as a female wandering the streets at night and seducing everyone.

She embodies physical desire, as well as the uprising against patriarchal norms and behaviour.

I dreamed f this woman the day we met.

Eshu receives offerings known as Padè.

They include toasted flour, dendè oil, water, a cigar, a box of matches and hard liquor.

This is what he has to eat and drink.

As is often the case, the rituals and traditions of non-Christian religions get a negative treatment when they are up against the ascendant power of Christendom.

So, Papa Legba and his connection with the crossroads, becomes the devil.

Some say that you must talk to Baron Samedi or Cimetière holding a cow foot.

That is necessary because you must place your hand in his while you make your request of him.

When he leaves, he will take away with him whatever he is holding.

Papa Legba ouvirier Barriere puor moi

Agoe Papa Legba

Ouvirier barriere pour moi

Attibon Legba

Ouvirier barriere pour moi passer

Vrai, loa moi passer m'a remerci loa moin

I dream of walking with a woman I had never mer before. She was pointing at a sinuous path along a cliff that would take me to a medieval fortress. She said I should go to that distant town named Orange.

I woke up like almost every morning in Haiti. With the feeling of not knowing what is real and what is not.

That day we were driving to Saul d'Eau, a sacred waterfall near port au Prince. The road was bad and the car was slow. The last of our many stops was in a small village with a church that worshippers of Legba had to honour first.

I did not find anything interesting inside, but on my way out I met a woman who was carrying a turkey to the market. I asked her to pose for me using the bird's wings as a sort of fan. We drove her and two more friends up the hill to the market and then asked her qhat the name of the village was. She said the village was named Orange

A few days later, our guide in Cap Haitien showed us the video of a recent ceremony to Legba he had recorded. There was a woman, sat on the floor right by the gate of the fence. She was possessed by the spirit of Legba and she was using the wings of a black rooster as a fan hiding her face and smiling in trance.